LEPORELLO (ENDLESS BOOK) BINDING TUTORIAL

Natalie Ratkovski announced a new project for 2014: An Endless Book.  Painters, photographers, scrapbookers are invited to create an endless book: 52 pages of illustrations without borders or edges, one illustration per week.  At the end of the year each of us will have one panoramic "image".

Image by Natalie Ratkovski

Before starting the project one needs a Leporello bound notebook.  I chose to use paper bags for mine - easy and perfect for collages/scrapbook pages I am planning on making.

The name leporello is derived from the opera Don Giovanni. Leporello was his manservant. He kept a record of Don Giovanni's female conquests in a book. At the end of Act II he spread the book across the stage. It's an accordion fold of unlimited width. Pages are joined to form the accordion.

Мини скрап альбомы из бумажных пакетов очень популярны на западе. Я уже давно хотела попробовать сделать подобный скрап альбом, но всё никак не доходили руки. "Почему бы не совместить бумажные пакеты и лепорелло?" - подумала я и получился вот такой вот мастер-класс. Итак, книга лепорелло из бумажных пакетов. 

Вам понадобятся: бумажные пакеты, клей (можно использовать любой, но я выбрала двустороннюю клейкую ленту, которая не коробит бумагу) и ножницы/кисточка для клея.
 

Для начала, согните дно пакетов как показано на фотографии.

For the "endless" book you will need to connect the top of one bag with the bottom of the second one.

Для создания бесконечной гармошки один пакет будем склеивать с другим.

Here you can see white strips of my double-sided tape:

На этой фотографии видны белые полоски двусторонней клейкой ленты.  Всё что нужно сделать - приклеить "верх" пакета между двумя "клапанами":

Note: add "pages" on both sides of the block.  Adding bags to one side only will cause your block to be uneven.

Совет: добавляйте страницы-пакеты и к началу и к концу блока, таким образом ваш блок будет более ровным и его не перекосит в сторону.

Time to make covers:

Для обложек нам понадобятся два прямоугольника из плотного картона, чуть больше по размерам чем сам блок (у меня получились 24смx14см).  Их можно обтянуть тканью или обклеить бумагой.

Готовые обложки просто приклейте к последним страницам блока

This is how your paper bag leporello bound book will look like.
I am anxious to start An Endless Book project in January. I hope I'll be able to keep up and will share weekly pages with you, my readers. 

А вот как книга лепорелло из бумажных пакетов выглядит внутри.
Я с нетерпением жду начала проекта Бесконечная Книга.  Надеюсь у меня будет достаточно времени чтобы не бросить затею на пол пути.

Note: If you are making this projects with 52 pages your block will be rather thick.  You can leave it under a thick book/weight overnight before attaching covers.  What you see on my photos are only first 13 pages of my endless book.  Since the back cover of my block is attached with a temporary glue I will be adding pages as the project continues.

Внимание: на фотографиях показаны только первые 13 страниц лепорелло.  Блок из 52 страниц должнен получиться гораздо "выше".  Прежде чем приклеить обложки, готовый блок можно подержать под прессом.  Я планирую добавлять страницы во время проекта, поэтому заднюю обложку я клеела неперманентным клеем. 

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More bookbinding tutorials at SAS-does:

COPTIC STITCH BINDING: part1 and part2
LONG-STITCH BINDING: part1 and part2

"Magical ideas" upcycled notebook

This notebook was made a while ago but I never got a chance to show it. It was an experimental project for which I tried to use only recycled materials.

• brown void-fill paper from CropChocolate parcels for pages
• cardboard box for covers
• paint chip samples for decoration and page tabs

I made it to practice COPTIC STITCH BINDING and to test brown paper.  It turned out that 3 signatures were not enough for the thick cardboard cover, and the notebook felt a little bit "unbalanced".  It was also quite challenging to stitch pages and covers tight.

I will keep looking for new materials to upcycle for my notebooks while writing down all the magical ideas into this one.


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A year ago, Anya was blogging about BERNAT CABLE HAT

Long-stitch binding tutorial - part 2

Last Tuesday I shared the first part of the LONG-STITCH BINDING TUTORIAL.  Today I am happy to show you the second part.  Please click on the image below to see the full tutorial.

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Long-stitch binding tutorial - part 1

Long-stitch binding is an interesting and fairly easy technique.  I find it to be much easier and faster than the Coptic-stitch binding.  I've used long-stitch binding for several of my notebooks and my agenda (you might remember them from the idea organizing post).  So today I want to share a tutorial for a long-stitch bound notebook.

I am taking an idea of a recycled notebook but instead of a hard Coptic-stitched cover this one has a soft cover with a long-stitch binding.  Are you ready for the part 1 of the tutorial?  Click on the image below to begin:

Click HERE for the second part of the tutorial.

Recycled notebook tutorial - part 2

Today I want to share the second part of the bookbinding tutorial.  If you've missed the first one, click HERE.

In the first tutorial we've talked about materials and supplies.  I also showed you how to fold signatures and make boards for your future notebook.

Today's tutorial is all about coptic stitch binding.  Get your needle and thread ready and click on the image to begin:

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Recycled notebook tutorial - part 1

Over the summer I made a little notebook, using one-sided printed papers from my work.  I've been looking at the pile of the scrap paper at my office for a while, thinking of interesting ways to re-use it.... until one day, I realized that the sheets of paper, folded in 4 could be stitched into a cute notebook.

To continue with re-using and upcycling I picked up a scrap cardboard box and bits and pieces of wrapping paper for the cover.  The final notebook is the perfect size to carry around and I use it to note down ideas for craft projects or blog posts.

A couple of days ago I managed to take step-by-step photos of bookbinding for the tutorial.  To make it easier to follow I divided the project into 2 parts: preparation of the textblock and covers and coptic stitch binding.  Click on the image below to see the first part of the tutorial:

Click here for the second part of tutorial

Gardening notebook

 

As you may remember from my PREVIOUS POST I have been taking care of our backyard this summer.  To keep track of all garden-related information I made myself a little gardening notebook.

What I really like about this project is that it is made with 99% recycled materials.  The cover is made from magazine pages cut into strips and weaved together.  I used different hues of green to create an interesting pattern.

The back page is also weaved, using slightly more "monochrome" pages.

The book is bound using Japanese stab binding technique.  I used leftover yarn from the CROCHETED PURSE I made a while ago.  The long string left after the binding serves as a closure.  It is also handy for tying up a pen or a pencil.

I used blue pages for the back cover.  The only non-recycled part of the book is the sticky plastic wrap used to hold both covers together.

Even the pages of the notebook are recycled: I used single-sided printed pages folded in two.

I really like this gardening notebook and looking at the pile of single-sided printed pages accumulating at my work I am thinking of making several more.  

Recycled notebook tutorial part 2

Time for the second part of the bookbinding tutorial.  Today it is all about coptic binding.  The process is not very difficult but it requires some attention.  If you are ready, let's begin.

Attaching the front board to the first signature

1. Begin with the first signature.  Pass the thread through the first hole, from inside, leaving a tail inside the signature (you will use it to tighten and secure your stitches.)

2. Pass the thread from outside into the first hole of the board - the needle should come out between the board and the signature.  

3. Before tightening the stitch,  pass the needle through the loop.
Insert the needle back into the first hole of the first signature

4. This is how it should look.  Tighten your stitch and knot together the tail and the thread

5. Insert the needle into the second hole of the first signature

6. Repeat step 2 

- pass the thread from outside into the second hole of the board (the needle should come out between the board and the signature)

- pass the needle through the loop

7. Continue in the same fashion until you reach the last hole of the board.

8. After looping the thread around the board and onto itself, insert it into the last hole of the second signature.

Adding signatures

9. Insert the needle (from inside) into the second to last hole.

10. On the outside pass the thread (right to left) under the stitch connecting the first signature and the board.

11. Insert the needle back into the second to last hole of the second signature.

12.  Repeat steps 9 and 10:

   -from inside into the third hole

   -pass from right to left under existing stitch

   -back into the third hole

13. Continue until you get to the last hole.  After pasing the thread, from right to left under the stitch, insert it into the first hole of the third signature

14. Pass the thread through inside, into the second hole of the signature.

On the outside, pass the thread from left to right, under the stitch.

Continue stitching signatures together.  You will be travelling: from the first hole to the last (up-down) on the odd numbered signatures and down-up on the even ones.

When travelling up-down, the thread is passed from left to right under the existing stitch.

When travelling down-up the thread is passed from right to left under the existing stitch.

Attaching last signature and second board

15. This is the trickiest part of the binding.  In my example, after finishing the last stitch of the 4th signature I need to attach both the board and the 5th signature.

16. Instead of going into the first hole of the last signature, insert the needle, from outside into the first hole of the board.

The needle should come out between the board and the signature

Pass under the existing stitch (left to right) and insert the needle into the first hole of the signature.

17. Pass through inside into the second hole

18. Pass under the stitch (left to right), then loop around the board.  Before inserting the needle back into the second hole, pass it through the loop on the board. 

 

19. Repeat steps 17 and 18, until the last hole is reached:

- Pass through inside into the third hole

- Pass under the stitch (left to right), then loop around the board ...

20. ... loop through the stitch on the board  and pass back into the third hole 

 

21. Here is another illustration:

- through inside into the hole

- under the previous stitch (left to right)

- loop around the board

- through the loop

- back into the hole

22. You should end up with the book spine that looks like this.

23. After the last stitch, the thread ends up inside the last signature.  Loop the needle under the binding thread, tighten the knot and cut the thread. 

 

 

24. Your notebook is done!


















25. It is normal to see small spaces between signatures.  If your binding is too tight, put your notebook under press for 24 hours - the string should stretch a little bit. 

Notes: 

• you might find it easier to use a curved tapestry needle instead of the regular straight one
• make sure to tighten your string, while stitching 

Feel free to contact me or leave a message with questions, comments or simply to share your projects.
Happy bookbinding!

Recycled notebook tutorial part 1

Before getting into all the nitty-gritty of the tutorial it is helpful to learn a couple of terms.  Our notebook will have 2 main parts: boards and textblock.  The term "textblock" comes from bookbinding and refers to all the leaves/pages inside the book.  Leaves are grouped together to form signatures.  The book in my example will have 5 signatures with 3 folded leaves in each (total of 6 double-sided pages per signature).  If I managed to completely confuse you with the terminology, take a look at THIS IMAGE, illustrating different parts of the book.

Now we are ready to start with the tutorial:

1. PREPARE YOU SUPPLIES

You will need the following tools:

• cutting mat (optional, but helpful)
• ruler
• x-acto knife or scissors
• pencil or pen
• needle and thread (used in the second part of tutorial.  you might find it easier to use curved, tapestry needle)
• awl (could be replaced by a thick needle, a knitting needle, or any other spiky object)
• glue (not shown on the image)

You will also need:

• one-side printed paper (15 sheets)
• small cardboard box
• decorative paper for the covers

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2. FOLD PAGES

You need to fold each one-side printed paper in 4, so that the printed side gets "hidden" inside.  To do so, first fold the page widthwise (printed part inside) and then fold it once again to make a 4 1/4x5 1/2 square

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3. ASSEMBLE SIGNATURES

When all your future pages are ready, separate them in groups of 3 (five groups in total) and put one page inside the other, as shown on the picture.  You should end up with 5 signatures.

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4. MAKE COVERS

Using the cardboard box (mine was from my favorite cereal), cut out rectangles for the notebook's covers.  I usually make mine slightly larger than the actual pages: 4 1/2 x 5 3/4

Next, measure and cut out rectangles from the decorative paper to cover the boards.  You will need 2 pieces for each board: one same size as the page and another one slightly larger (~1/2 inch each side)

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5. WRAP BOARDS

Glue bigger decorative paper pieces to the cardboard pieces.  Cut out the corners, as shown on the photo.

 Wrap extra paper around the edges and glue it.  Once glue is dried, glue the smaller decorative papers on the other part of the covers.

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6. MARK SIGNATURES

It is now time to decide where you will be binding signatures.  My book has 4 stitch columns so I spaced the holes equally ~1 3/32 in.  You do not have to be that precise and you do not have to space your stitches equally either.  What you have to do, is mark each signature at exactly the same places (otherwise your notebook will be a little bit crooked).  The best way to do so is to use one of the signatures as a template.

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7.  PIERCE SIGNATURES AND COVER BOARDS

Using an awl pierce signatures.

Next, mark and pierce cover boards. 

Once again, use one of the signatures as a template to decide where to pierce each board.  In my example, I left 1/2 distance from the board's edge.  This distance is completely arbitrary and you can decide to make it smaller or bigger.

Your textblock and boards are now ready to be stitched together.

UPDATE: here is THE SECOND PART of the tutorial